Nneji in Astoria
Welcome to Sinatra Bees, a journalism group from The Bennett that searches and explores small food businesses in the area as alternatives to large franchises. If you have a business you want us to explore, email Mr. Scheiner at mscheiner@fssahs.org with the name, address, and any additional information you’d like to share.
There’s only one worker here, the thin building around her an extension of her limbs. At Nneji, food is grab, go, and devour once it’s set in your hands after being freshly made. This sliver of West Africa sits on 32-20 34th Avenue in Astoria, with a diverse menu ranging from broth to vegetable dishes. Its unimposing storefront wedged an apartment and pizzeria contains a welcoming interior, walls lined with baskets and spices that smell like old import shops.
All food is takeout, so make a quick run to bring a meal back to your friends at school. And from the moment of ordering to stepping out the door, it takes all of five minutes to receive your food, warm in your hands through the container.
We ordered egusi: a blend of tomatoes, melon seed, spinach, and beef that hides an unapologetic explosion of spice ripe with authenticity. Between each teary bite is a respite in a side of cassava, the innards of the roots of the yucca plant, native to subtropical regions. It thrives in sub-saharan Africa, appearing in a multitude of forms such as pudding and porridge. Sitting in the atrium, we eat it as quickly as the popping embers of seasoning on our tongues allow.
West Africa, consisting of countries such as Ghana, Nigeria, Senegal, Côte D’Ivoire, Chad, and many others has a rich cuisine based in vegetables. Dishes make frequent use of tomatoes, onions, chili, and peppers, accompanied by spices from all over the world. Chili in specific is a beloved addition to most dishes in West Africa, especially the Scotch bonnet, for the belief that the sweat after eating it helps refresh and cool the skin. You can try this pepper in Nneji’s Red Stew and Goat Stew, made with meat and spice blends.
Their milder options include okra, yassa, and sweet potato for a colorful selection of vegetables and proteins. These options are also accommodating for vegan diets, able to be eaten with or without meat and enjoyed all the same.
For side dishes, you can’t stop by without ordering jollof rice, a famous dish that can quite literally go with anything. With origins in Senegal, the rice mixed with tomato, onion, and chili has become beloved all over the region and even spread to the Caribbean. Nneji serves a delicious and generous portion, which can be ordered alongside chicken, salmon, and mixed meat.
And for all of these dishes with portions enough for a fulfilling lunch, the largest price listed on their Seamless sits at $22 for the Curry Thyme Oxtail, a curry based in turmeric, served alongside thyme and jollof. Most prices sit between $8-$16.
For those interested in not only exploring West African cuisine, but seeking to try preparing it, the store also sells spices, pastes, flour, and starches commonly found in the region’s dishes. There is also a nod to those interested in bathing products: beside the counter is a shelf of naturally sourced soaps and incense, with baskets of African black soap, shea butter, coconut, aloe, and many others.
In a neighborhood such as Astoria, it’s a disservice to walk through hills of culture and traditional cuisine without at least the slightest twitch of curiosity.
For students with a craving for spices, or willing to try something new: Nneji should be your next stop. Check out their menu here: https://www.seamless.com/menu/nneji-32-20-34th-ave-astoria/2054016